Singapore: Grilled fish on a generous bed of numbing chillis and peppercorns from China's southwestern metropolis, Chongqing; cumin-laced lamb skewers from Xinjiang in the far north; and fiery rice noodles flavoured with snails from the famed rivers of Guangxi in the south—all of this can be found on a walk down Liang Seah Street in Singapore. This culinary diversity is a testament to Chinese food having a moment outside China, driven by massive success and intense competition back home.
According to BBC, Singapore serves as a strategic starting point for this culinary revolution, with ethnically Chinese people comprising more than three-quarters of the population. The entry of major Chinese brands is evident, with Luckin, China's answer to Starbucks, opening more than 60 stores since its first overseas debut in March 2023. These ventures illustrate how established chains to mom-and-pop stores are finding success in Singapore before expanding further into Southeast Asia and beyond.
Thomas DuBois, a historian of modern China, notes that succeeding in Singapore acts as a "proof of concept" for global expansion, convincing investors of the chain's readiness to go global. Singapore's diverse culinary landscape makes it a great test kitchen for various palates, ranging from South Asian to European.
Claire Wang, marketing manager for Hunan-based chain Nong Geng Ji, explains that different regions in China offer unique spicy flavors, like Huans tangy aftertaste achieved through fermented chili peppers, distinct from Sichuan's numbing-spicy or Guizhou's sour-spicy. After opening over 100 restaurants in China, Nong Geng Ji has expanded to several countries, including Singapore, Malaysia, Canada, and is now eyeing opportunities in Thailand, Japan, South Korea, and the US.
Fuchsia Dunlop, a British food writer, highlights in her new book "Invitation to a Banquet" that the global perception of Chinese cuisine has often been clouded by simplified, un-Chinese staples like orange chicken and chow mein. She argues that these dishes obscure the diversity and sophistication of Chinese gastronomy. The stereotype dubbed the "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome" has further fueled misconceptions about Chinese food.
A growing diaspora is now making it possible for Chinese restaurants to stay true to their culinary roots, and the world's adventurous palates are welcoming it. Thomas Tao, vice-president of the Green Tea Restaurant chain, plans to open the chain's first outpost in Singapore, featuring an immersive dining experience with traditional Chinese elements.
Dunlop suggests that Beijing could leverage its culinary culture to project soft power more effectively. As Chinese restaurant chains continue to expand globally, they challenge local businesses and invoke concerns about maintaining competitiveness. However, the cultural pride embedded in Chinese culinary diplomacy may serve as a new form of engagement, reminiscent of the historic ping-pong diplomacy that improved relations between Beijing and Washington in 1971. Felix Ren from Singapore-based food consultancy WeMedia believes that Chinese cuisine might just be the new diplomatic tool.